2012年8月19日星期日
A frock to go together with your bag All of us know that the lucrative accessory and fragrance line
A frock to go together with your bag
All of us know that the lucrative accessory and fragrance lines stamped with a designer's name support the international ready-to- wear sector but, at last week's Paris collections, this message was hammered property to the point of no return. Piling every thing but the kitchen sink on to a model's slender frame - the shoes, the bag, the belt, the sunglasses - then plastering the lot with logos to the point that the garments themselves had been all but obscured from view will not be what style needs right now.
Valentino sent out one particular handbag after a different. Louis Vuitton added monogrammed visors, baseball caps as well as umbrella shields best hermes replicas to its currently predominantly accessory-led range. The Christian Dior logo was back with a bang; the property also came up with a new handbag, pair of boots and a scarf print for the season. What does it matter that the latter looked far more like classic Hermes? Celine's accessories appeared to hail from Brobdingnag: bigger, much better and, well, additional brash than ever prior to.
To create matters a lot more unpalatable nevertheless, the first Paris season for the subsequent millennium seemed, at occasions, so hung up on the late Seventies early Eighties as to become lacking inspiration entirely. This was not just apparent inside the omnipresence of aforementioned logos, but in addition within the trashy over-exposure of flesh, disco-diva silhouette, predominance of gold plate and prevalence of killer heels everywhere.
There had been, happily, exceptions to the rule. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons was on ordinarily revolutionary - if at times also ordinarily opaque - form. Models, their hair teased into crowns of ringlets, their feet clad in pointed slippers sprouting sprays of leaves, resembled fairy princesses for the 21st century. There was greater than a touch in the deconstructed Toulouse Lautrec showgirl: ruffled collars and underskirts also paul smith,Abercrombie and Fitch,dsquared which looked as if they had been crafted out of crepe paper had been as pretty as a image, finishing gauzy fabrics and a narrow and unashamedly feminine silhouette.
Comme protege Junya Watanabe came up with the finest offering of his profession so far. This was both an physical exercise inside the technological advancement that preoccupies Japanese designers - all the fabrics had been newly created for the show and waterproof - and charming throughout. To the strains of a Karen Carpenter medley, and the shower of rain that cascaded from exposed pipes operating the length from the catwalk, models came out in neat, Sixties-style shift dresses and oversized headscarves, too as skinny tailoring with just enough stretch to produce them a pleasure to wear. An extraordinarily gifted craftsman, Watanabe effortlessly incorporates back- packs and bonnets into dresses, capes into skirts and handbags into jackets, all within a way that never ever appears overworked.
Yohji Yamamoto, as always, went out on an idiosyncratic limb. His was a masterclass in tailoring. Curvy jackets crafted in interfacing boasted tacking-stitches tracing darts and seams. These looked sweet but under no circumstances sickly, teamed with overblown calico skirts - quite by far the most glamorous toiles in style history. Towards the finish on the show, the designer relaxed his message and sent out Thirties- inspired cocktail suits in liquid satin. Moulded to the physique in a web of complicated seams, these were, rather only, sublime. Oh, along with the only accessories on display had been feather parasols that will, needless to say, never ever go into widescale production. Yamamoto's additional reasonably- priced second line, Yohji Noir, his Ysaac accessories and money- spinning fragrances continue to facilitate his primary line quietly and devoid of fanfare, and, most importantly, with no ever compromising the integrity in the garments.
Martin Margiela's appointment as designer-in-chief at Hermes, a single of your greatest status labels of them all, was produced without having fanfare over two years ago. His collection for the label was, when once again, equally understated - clothes for women who spend their days rambling the Hermes Handbags Outlet Shop French countryside with not a care nor a Kelly bag on the planet, dressed in garments that whisper luxury as opposed to scream it. There was the right cashmere jumper and/or honey coloured coat, an immaculately cut pair of trousers and just the pair of espadrilles - in softest leather, not grubby old canvas - to view the Hermes client by means of the summer. Margiela shows this collection on girls of all ages, secure inside the knowledge that Hermes is unlikely ever to inspire a youthquake. It looked all the much better for it.
The designer's own line was conceptually more ambitious, but no less accomplished. Oversized jackets and coats, worn more than equally voluminous cotton skirts and sweatshirts made for refreshing viewing, surrounded as they were by the sea of itsy-bitsy bikinis and skirts that barely grazed the thigh on less women-friendly runways. These could set the flashbulbs popping, but execute little other function than that. Come the spring, Belgium's greatest designer's collection will no doubt be obtainable in smaller sizes for all those who would rather not be swamped by their clothes for the sake of an argument, albeit a politically-correct a single.A frock to go together with your bag
All of us know that the lucrative accessory and fragrance lines stamped with a designer's name support the international ready-to- wear sector but, at last week's Paris collections, this message was hammered property to the point of no return. Piling every thing but the kitchen sink on to a model's slender frame - the shoes, the bag, the belt, the sunglasses - then plastering the lot with logos to the point that the garments themselves had been all but obscured from view will not be what style needs right now.
Valentino sent out one particular handbag after a different. Louis Vuitton added monogrammed visors, baseball caps as well as umbrella shields to its currently predominantly accessory-led range. The Christian Dior logo was back with a bang; the property also came up with a new handbag, pair of boots and a scarf print for the season. What does it matter that the latter looked far more like classic Hermes? Celine's accessories appeared to hail from Brobdingnag: bigger, much better and, well, additional brash than ever prior to.
To create matters a lot more unpalatable nevertheless, the first Paris season for the subsequent millennium seemed, at occasions, so hung up on the late Seventies early Eighties as to become lacking inspiration entirely. This was not just apparent inside the omnipresence of aforementioned logos, but in addition within the trashy over-exposure of flesh, disco-diva silhouette, predominance of gold plate and prevalence of killer heels everywhere.
There had been, happily, exceptions to the rule. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons was on ordinarily revolutionary - if at times also ordinarily opaque - form. Models, their hair teased into crowns of ringlets, their feet clad in pointed slippers sprouting sprays of leaves, resembled fairy princesses for the 21st century. There was greater than a touch in the deconstructed Toulouse Lautrec showgirl: ruffled collars and underskirts also paul smith,Abercrombie and Fitch,dsquared which looked as if they had been crafted out of crepe paper had been as pretty as a image, finishing gauzy fabrics and a narrow and unashamedly feminine silhouette.
Comme protege Junya Watanabe came up with the finest offering of his profession so far. This was both an physical exercise inside the technological advancement that preoccupies Japanese designers - all the fabrics had been newly created for the show and waterproof - and charming throughout. To the strains of a Karen Carpenter medley, and the shower of rain that cascaded from exposed pipes operating the length from the catwalk, models came out in neat, Sixties-style shift dresses and oversized headscarves, too as skinny tailoring with just enough stretch to produce them a pleasure to wear. An extraordinarily gifted craftsman, Watanabe effortlessly incorporates back- packs and bonnets into dresses, capes into Hermes Plume 32 skirts and handbags into jackets, all within a way that never ever appears overworked.
Yohji Yamamoto, as always, went out on an idiosyncratic limb. His was a masterclass in tailoring. Curvy jackets crafted in interfacing boasted tacking-stitches tracing darts and seams. These looked sweet but under no circumstances sickly, teamed with overblown calico skirts - quite by far the most glamorous toiles in style history. Towards the finish on the show, the designer relaxed his message and sent out Thirties- inspired cocktail suits in liquid satin. Moulded to the physique in a web of complicated seams, these were, rather only, sublime. Oh, along with the only accessories on display had been feather parasols that will, needless to say, never ever go into widescale production. Yamamoto's additional reasonably- priced second line, Yohji Noir, his Ysaac accessories and money- spinning fragrances continue to facilitate his primary line quietly and devoid of fanfare, and, most importantly, with no ever compromising the integrity in the garments.
Martin Margiela's appointment as designer-in-chief at Hermes, a single of your greatest status labels of them all, was produced without having fanfare over two years ago. His collection for the label was, when once again, equally understated - clothes for women who spend their days rambling the French countryside with not a care nor a Kelly bag on the planet, dressed in garments that whisper luxury as opposed to scream it. There was the right cashmere jumper and/or honey coloured coat, an immaculately cut pair of trousers and just the pair of espadrilles - in softest leather, not grubby old canvas - to view the Hermes client by means of the summer. Margiela shows this collection on girls of all ages, secure inside the knowledge that Hermes is unlikely ever to inspire a youthquake. It looked all the much better for it.
The designer's own line was conceptually more ambitious, but no less accomplished. Oversized jackets and coats, worn more than equally voluminous cotton skirts and sweatshirts made for refreshing viewing, surrounded as they were by the sea of itsy-bitsy bikinis and skirts that barely grazed the thigh on less women-friendly runways. These could set the flashbulbs popping, but execute little other function than that. Come the spring, Belgium's greatest designer's collection will no doubt be obtainable in smaller sizes for all those who would rather not be swamped by their clothes for the sake of an argument, albeit a politically-correct a single.
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